Saturday, December 17, 2011

Base Lotion/ Creme

 A simple base lotion/ creme with a few changes along the way. A base lotion can make it easier for simply incorporating actives, however not all base lotions/ creams are created equal. It's just as easy and more effective to build one as opposed to purchase one. Tailoring a base to your personal preferences is also not rocket science. You can choose the ingredients you want to work with. The following is a simple one with modifications because the formulator felt like it. At SEA the preference is to work with ingredients that have a direct benefit to dermal health as opposed to 'sensor' appeal. You can have both without compromising.
Ingredients Percentage %
Oils 27 %
Sea Emollient 15 %
Distilled Water 25.5 %
Vitamin E acetate or oil 1 %
Hyaluronic Acid 1% 15 %
Glycerin 2 %
Dexpanthenol 3 %
Lecithin 3%
E wax 8 %
Preservative 0.5 %

1. Prepare ingredients and tools. 
 2. Weigh your ingredients and start the hot water in the double boiler.
3.a. Melt the Ewax and the oils. Then add your lecithin, we used egg lecithin in the example. 
3.b. Lecithin, Wax and Oil in the hot water, blend.

4.a. Combine your water phase of, HA 1%, H20, Vit E, Sea Emollient, B5 and glycerin. Blend and then place in the hot water bath with the oils. 
4.b. When the Oil and emulsifiers are well mixed and both phases are at the same temperature, remove them.
5.a. While blending, slowly add either half to the other. In this case, water phase to oil phase and you will see the emulsion forming. 
5.b.Add your preservatives and essential oils. Pour into a sterilized container. 

Now, .it can get more interesting. Suppose you want to add Idebenone to that base, or Retinyl Palmitate. Generally adding actives after the fact is rather unattractive and gritty. Still is, but it can be done not too badly.

6. a. Self explanatory. You already know the total in your cream, We need 0.5% . Calculate that and add it.
6.1. Weigh your active, it is oil soluble. 
6.2. Weigh your oil.
6.3. Mix the two and add a small amount of your lotion and continue mixing till smooth
6.4. Incorporate into your base cream. 
6.5. Done.
6.6 Forgot...let's add Retinyl Palmitate at 2%, same procedure as above but simply weigh it and add it in. 

But, it's still not as thick as one might prefer. Not that thickness provides any specific benefit to the skin, but it is what most are used to.

7.1. More lecithin, 3%. Used Soy lecithin, no particular reason.
7.2. Same procedure as for Idebenone. Add oil, mix add some lotion mix
7.3. Add to entire pot of lotion~creme.
7.4. It can hold a spatula straight, without fillers or waxes or other stiffening agents. 
7.5. 24 hours later it has set and is a very hydrating Idebenone and Vitamin A cream. 

Why was it  thin? The HA 1% was the Super Low Molecular Weight HA, it is as thin as water. Added no body to the lotion.Using a heavy weight HA will make a big difference in the end product.

To increase the 'thickness', various butters that are solid at room temperature can be added. That will change the consistency as well as the texture. It is entirely up to personal preference how you want to make a base lotion.

This lotion, is not greasy, sinks into the skin quickly.

SeaVage ~ Idebenone B3/ NAG serum

Prevage is based on the efficacy of Idebenone in clinical trials. However, the name brand is extremely expensive. To DIY an Idebenone serum is relatively straight forward. Sea Lab has combined the active with several other clinically proven actives at  clinically effective levels. User feedback has been extremely positive. To make it easier , the following tutorial is offered as a guide. The formula can be simplified if one prefers.
*n.b. If making SeaVage from the DIY KIT, you are not missing ingredients. You are getting started, the tutorial is 100% applicable to the kit. The singular difference is the extra ingredients that are not included can be added  if you were to choose so. When you DIY, you have many options.

Ingredients Percent Total %
Idebenone 0.5 %
Niacinamide 5 %
N- Acetyl D glucosamine 2 %
Oils/~ Borage 28 %
Distilled H20 19 %
Sclerotium Gum or  Hyaluronic Acid 1% 8 %
Vitamin E acetate 1 %
Lecithin= Egg or Soy 5 %
Retinol ~ Vitamin A acetate / Retinyl Palmitate 1 %
Sea Emollient 28 %
Polysorbate 80 2 %
Phenoxyethanol 0.5%
Essential oils of preference. pH: 6.03

1. Set up ingredients and tools before hand. Make sure everything is ready.

2. Weigh all your ingredients:  

3.a. Combine the water soluble ingredients: Vit E acetate and Retinol
3.b. Add the sea emollient and HA1% or sclerotium gum and blend. Then add the B3 and NAG.

4 a. Retinol may not go completely into solution at this point. Easy fix, place the water phase component into the hot water bath along with the oil which is now warming, not cooking, will not require more than 40-45 Celsius.

4.b. Remove both the oil and water half from the hot water bath. Add the Ideneone to the oils. *n.b. the Retinol is now completely in solution.

5.a. Blend briefly the Idebenone and oil, then add the lecithin and blend. Add lecithin slowly while blending and you will soon have a custard appearing emulsion.

5.b. In #3 you are combining the water phase of Sea emollient, HA, B3 , NAG, Vit E and Retinol.
6. Pictured above, is the emulsion without Poly80, add that now along with phenoxyethanol and any essential oils.

Done. Final pH of the serum is 6.03.

If you wish to make adjustments to the serum, please go to:

SEA Lab Batch Size Calculator

Saturday, December 10, 2011

MAP 10% Serum/ light lotion

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate is the non / less irritating Vitamin C alternative to LAA. The following is a light lotion/ serum that can be tailored to personal preference.

Ingredients Percent usage %
MAP 10 %
Sea Emollient 27 %
Oil of choice 20 %
Vitamin E acetate 1 %
Hyaluronic acid 1% pre-mix 10 %
Emulsifying Wax NF 5 %
Distilled H20 23.5 %
Phenoxyethanol 0.5 %
DexPanthenol /B5/ Glycerin 3 %
Essential Oil to scent Couple drops

1. Prepare your equipment and ingredients.

 2. Weigh and measure everything before hand. Makes it easier.

 3. a. Now we start getting our actives into solution.
3.b. MAP may need a gentle coaxing, first take some of the H20 from your total H20 container and mix as above, a little at a time till it is thickish. In number 4. You can see the Vitamin E with some of the H20. 

 3.c. We are doing two things at the same time, saves time. E and MAP into solution from the total H20 content.

 3.d. Now we can combine the E and MAP. Done for now.
4.a. Next we look at the rest of the water phase ingredients. HA 1%, Sea emollient, Glycerin / Dex panthenol.
4.b. Combine them and mix and add the MAP and E now.
5. Oil and Wax are heated till the wax is melted and not more. 

 6. Gently warm the water phase.
7. Combine the oil and water phase. 
Keep blending and add your phenoxyethanol and Essential oils here.

8. Check the pH.Calibrate first. 

 9. Pour into sterilized bottle. Done.

If you want to make adjustments to the formula, please go to: 

SEA Lab Online Calculator 

For an alternative please see, MAP 10% serum, another version!. Thank you Dempeaux!

Sunday, December 4, 2011

SEAKinNiaNAG serum

SeaKiNiaNAG  is based on the effective combination of 5% niacinamide/ vitamin B3 and N-acetyl-D glucosamine 2%. Kinetin is a potent antioxidant and signal peptide with anti aging benefits. The following is using lecithin as the emulsifier. 

Another version of KinNiaNAG using Ewax can be found at KinNiaNAG with E wax  
If you don't have the time or interest to DIY, another option : SeaKinNiaNAG Serum is available here.  
*n.b. If you are using the SeaKNN kit, you will start at #3. Measure 0.3 grams of the solution. It is best to use a syringe. The Kit is pH adjusted to 5.6. You will not need citric acid. Follow the kit instructions and weights. The tutorial is the guide to help you, one ingredient has been added based on personal preference. The procedure remains the same. 

SkinCare forum is available to ask and answer questions. SEA has been invited to participate at that venue.

Ingredients Percent  Active %
Kinetin 0.1 %
Niacinamide 5 %
N-acetyl D glucoasmine 2 %
Sea Emollient
30 %
Glycerin/ Dex Panthenol 3 %
Distilled water 24.5 %

Borage Oil
Lecithin 5 %
Polysorbate 80 2 %
Vitamin E 1 %
1 N NaOH Sol'n + Citric Acid pH adjustment
0.5 %

1.a. Kinetin must first go into solution, to do so, you need 0.39 grams of NaOH [ sodium hydroxide] and 10 mls of distilled water. Place the NaOH in a glass or stainless steel container, then add the 10 mls of H20. This will cause the NaOH to give off noxious fumes. Don't breathe it . It will also generate heat. Keep this off to the side until it cools down.
1.b. As a 1 N NaOH solution was made previously, the solvent is ready for use. One less step. 

2. Measure 0.03 grams of Kinetin into a small glass. Add sufficient amount to cover your crystals and stir. Set aside, and check periodically. Stir. It will go into solution. 

3.a. Weigh and combine Niacinamide , NAG , Vitamin E acetate and H20 , stir until dissolved. 

If using the SeaKNN kit, you will measure out 0.3 grams of the Kinetin 10%  solution at this point and add to the B3/NAG/H20.

3.b. If using  Dexpanthenol / glycerin, add that now.  Stir until all is in solution.
4. Add Kinetin solution.  Check the pH and adjust to pH 7.0

5. Add Sea emollient blend. Add your preservative and blend.

6. Oil/s of choice 10.50 grams and E- wax or Lecithin powder 2.20 grams combined, and heated till the lecithin melts in a double boiler.Alternatively, heat the oil.and slowly add lecithin while blending. 

7. Blend the oil and lecithin well.

8a.. Pour  the water phase while blending  into your oil and lecithin/ wax. 

Keep blending...
8.b. It is quite thick, and now add your 1) Polysorbate 80,2) Essential oils and 3) preservative. Blend.

9. Pour into a sterilized container.         

10. Done...Patch test before using.

The formula is quite stable, does not require refrigeration.
If one wishes to add Retinyl Palmitate it is quite useful and non irritating. Please go to

SEA Lab Online Calculator

if you want to make any adjustments or want to modify the batch size.

SeaKinNiaNAG Serum is available here.

Saturday, December 3, 2011

DIY Hyaluronic Acid 1% Serum/ Sclerotium Gum

Hyaluronic acid serum is especially easy and cost effective to DIY. It lends itself very readily to incorporation of water, alcohol and alkaline soluble actives. It is also an elegant thickening agent when making oil and water serums or lotions.

Sclerotium Gum requires the same simple steps, however it can be added up to 2%. To thicken sclerotium gum more rapidly, place in a warm water bath and blend briefly. The mixture will rapidly thicken into a stable gel. 
To make 30 grams ~ 1 oz of HA 1% serum or 1% Sclerotium Gum

Ingredient Percent % Grams
Hyaluronic acid powder/
Sclerotium gum
1%... 0.3g
Distilled water 98% 29.4  g
Phenoxyethanol 1% 0.3 g

1. Weigh your hyaluronic acid or sclerotium gum. 

2. Place in sterilized container 

3. Add previously weighed water and phenoxyethanol

After 10 minutes will look like this

4. a. Hyaluronic acid :Shake vigorously and place in refrigerator for 1-2 hours.
4. b. Sclerotium Gum, place in warm water bath and blend. Allow to set for 24 hours and it will stiffen further. 
HA serum 1 hour later

5. You now have a 1% hyaluronic acid serum, or sclerotium gum.

If you are using SLMWHA [ Super Low Molecular Weight Hyaluronic acid ] Your serum will be runny as water, however it will still retain the unique sensation of HA. 


Friday, December 2, 2011


SEA is committed to bringing you the finest extracts, skin care actives and the tools to make DIY skin care a successful endeavor. SEA was founded partly in reaction to the over pricing and hyped claims to the latest and greatest in skin care. Preying on the desire of so many to take control of their skin care issues, thousands of dollars are wasted on products that simply don't and could never work. The vast majority of products purchased do not contain anywhere near the levels of actives that are necessary to create the same results as those found in a clinical study. DIY skin care is quite simple and extremely effective. We hope you will  acquaint yourself with Smart Skin Care .

Cell biology, microbiology, biochemistry and advanced human physiology combined with the pleasure of experience in a marine lab can very readily be focused on one's most obvious asset. With the advances in science and technology, there have also been the pitfalls. As such, many are now turning to more natural ways of dealing with skin care issues and with a great deal more success. 

Each individual is unique with their own particular biochemistry. What may work well for one may not be as effective for another. It's a process of learning and experimenting. The infamous process of elimination in finding the actives that work best for you. SEA is meticulous in making available only proven extracts, vitamins for skin care and safe skin care ingredients. The focus at SEA is Natural DIY skin care.

None of our products have been tested on animals. That is not to say that the research we base the availability of actives on at SEA, was not done using animals. We do not and will not ever test on an animal. Family and friends are our guinea pigs and lab rats. We have a 100% survival rate. No casualties, tumors nor growths of any nature. 

At SEA we combine actives at clinical levels that will have a greater chance of  efficacy while not creating irritation. Our preference and choice is for "natural" products. We are well aware of the changing definition of natural. We have our own. Simplicity works well and allows for the creation of extremely effective and potent serums.