Solubility Chart

The following chart contains the most useful solvents for each active. If you click on the active name, it will redirect you to the optimal pH range for formulating as well as % usage. *n.b. Use the least amount of solvent possible to get the active into solution. Account for its weight as part of the oil or water phase respectively and make the appropriate adjustments to your formula/ recipe in the batch size calculator. 1 N NaOH = 0.39 grams NaOH dissolved in 10 grams distilled water. Use the least amount necessary.

	Active Ingredient	Solvent #1	Solvent #2	pH
	AA2G	Water	N/A	2.0-7.0
	Alpha Lipoic Acid	Oil	N/A	4.5-6.5
	L-Carnosine	Water	N/A	4.0~6.0
	Chrysin	1 N NaOH	N/A	6.5-7.0
	Co Enzyme Q 10	Oil	Ethanol	3.0-7.0
	Coffeeberry extract	Water	Ethanol	4.5-6.0
	D- Panthenol	Water	N/A	4.0-6.0
	Ellagic Acid	1 N NaOH	N/A	6.8-7.2
	Ferulic Acid	1 N NaOH	Ethanol	3.0-7.2
	Ginger extract	Water	N/A	5.0-6.0
	Genistein	1 N NaOH	Ethanol	5.5-6.5
	Grape seed Extract	Water	Ethanol	4.5-6.5
	Glycolic acid	Water	Ethanol	pKa 3.83
	Green Tea Extract	Water	Ethanol	<4.0
	L-Hydroxyproline AHYP	Water	N/A	4.0-6.0
	Idebenone	Oil	Ethanol	3.0-7.0
	Hyaluronic Acid	Water	N/A	5.0-7.0
	Kinetin	1 N NaOH	N/A	2.0-9.0
	L-Ascorbic Acid	Water	N/A	2.0-3.2
	Lactic Acid	Water	Ethanol	pKa 3.86
	MAP	Water	N/A	7.2
	N-Glucosamine	Water	N/A	4.0-6.0
	Niacinamide	Water	N/A	4.0-6.0
	L-Proline	Water	N/A	4.0-6.0
	Quercetin	1 N NaOH	N/A	5.5-6.5
	Retinol	Water	Poly 20/Oil	6.0-7.0
	Retinyl Palmitate	Oil	N/A	4.0-6.0
	Sclerotium Gum	Water	N/A	2.0-9.0
	Salicylic Acid	Ethanol	N/A	pKa 2.98
	Trans Resveratrol	Ethanol	N/A	5.5-7.2
	Vitamin E acetate	Water	N/A	4.5-6.0
	Vitamin E Oil	Oil	N/A	N/A
	Vitamin K1	Oil	N/A	N/A
	White Willow Bark Extract	Water	Ethanol	3.0-4.0

1 N NaOH = 0.39 grams NaOH dissolved in 10 grams distilled water. A very useful solvent and pH adjustor. Use Caution when working with NaOH , it is caustic. Simply washing with running water should you splash on yourself is generally sufficient unless you have an open wound. Use common sense. Do not get the solution in your eyes. Use a pH meter to test the pH and use citric acid to lower the pH.

1 M Citric Acid = 1.92 grams C3H4OH(COOH)3 dissolved in 10 grams distilled water

 H3C6H8O6 + NaOH --> Na3(C6H8O6)+ 3H2O 

Citric acid + Sodium Hydroxide----> Sodium citrate salt + water

 3 molecules of NaOH are required to neutralize one of citric acid..

Lactic Acid 40 % Gel

Lactic Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid often used as a moisturizing ingredient as well as a gentle exfoliator. Most often lactic acid is purchased in a saturated liquid form, however that is not necessary if you have the 99% pure form available.

Ingredients	Percent
Lactic Acid	40 %
Distilled water	40%
Sclerotium gum 2% stock sol'n	20%

1. Prepare your tools and ingredients. 

2. Weigh your ingredients.

3. Combine your lactic acid with your water.

4.a.  Blend/ vigorously stir the lactic acid and water, it will be creamy white. 

4.b. There may be tiny grains, that is undesirable, to get it all into solution, place in the hot water bath and blend.

5. When the lactic acid has gone into solution, add the sclerotium gum and continue blending till homogeneous.

6. Remove and allow to cool while stirring.

7. Check the pH.

8. Your 40% lactic acid gel is quite thick and easy to work with. It can be used as a peel with greater control. No fear of watery acids running  and collecting/ pooling on the skin.

Please note pH and pKa.The gel is well below the pKa of 3.86 of Lactic acid. It is close to 100 % free acid.


To buffer the solution, use 0.5 M NaOH. Test it. When you buffer/ neutralize the solution you will reduce the free acid and the efficacy. 

TEST PATCH before using.