Lactic Acid 40 % Gel

Lactic Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid often used as a moisturizing ingredient as well as a gentle exfoliator. Most often lactic acid is purchased in a saturated liquid form, however that is not necessary if you have the 99% pure form available.

Ingredients	Percent
Lactic Acid	40 %
Distilled water	40%
Sclerotium gum 2% stock sol'n	20%

1. Prepare your tools and ingredients. 

2. Weigh your ingredients.

3. Combine your lactic acid with your water.

4.a.  Blend/ vigorously stir the lactic acid and water, it will be creamy white. 

4.b. There may be tiny grains, that is undesirable, to get it all into solution, place in the hot water bath and blend.

5. When the lactic acid has gone into solution, add the sclerotium gum and continue blending till homogeneous.

6. Remove and allow to cool while stirring.

7. Check the pH.

8. Your 40% lactic acid gel is quite thick and easy to work with. It can be used as a peel with greater control. No fear of watery acids running  and collecting/ pooling on the skin.

Please note pH and pKa.The gel is well below the pKa of 3.86 of Lactic acid. It is close to 100 % free acid.


To buffer the solution, use 0.5 M NaOH. Test it. When you buffer/ neutralize the solution you will reduce the free acid and the efficacy. 

TEST PATCH before using.

SeaVage ~ Idebenone B3/ NAG serum

Prevage is based on the efficacy of Idebenone in clinical trials. However, the name brand is extremely expensive. To DIY an Idebenone serum is relatively straight forward. Sea Lab has combined the active with several other clinically proven actives at  clinically effective levels. User feedback has been extremely positive. To make it easier , the following tutorial is offered as a guide. The formula can be simplified if one prefers.
*n.b. If making SeaVage from the DIY KIT, you are not missing ingredients. You are getting started, the tutorial is 100% applicable to the kit. The singular difference is the extra ingredients that are not included can be added  if you were to choose so. When you DIY, you have many options.

Ingredients	Percent Total %
Idebenone	0.5 %
Niacinamide	5 %
N- Acetyl D glucosamine	2 %
Oils/~ Borage	28 %
Distilled H20	19 %
Sclerotium Gum or  Hyaluronic Acid 1%	8 %
Vitamin E acetate	1 %
Lecithin= Egg or Soy	5 %
Retinol ~ Vitamin A acetate / Retinyl Palmitate	1 %
Sea Emollient	28 %
Polysorbate 80	2 %
Phenoxyethanol	0.5%
Essential oils of preference.	pH: 6.03

1. Set up ingredients and tools before hand. Make sure everything is ready.

 

2. Weigh all your ingredients:  

 

3.a. Combine the water soluble ingredients: Vit E acetate and Retinol

3.b. Add the sea emollient and HA1% or sclerotium gum and blend. Then add the B3 and NAG.

4 a. Retinol may not go completely into solution at this point. Easy fix, place the water phase component into the hot water bath along with the oil which is now warming, not cooking, will not require more than 40-45 Celsius.

4.b. Remove both the oil and water half from the hot water bath. Add the Ideneone to the oils. *n.b. the Retinol is now completely in solution.

5.a. Blend briefly the Idebenone and oil, then add the lecithin and blend. Add lecithin slowly while blending and you will soon have a custard appearing emulsion.

5.b. In #3 you are combining the water phase of Sea emollient, HA, B3 , NAG, Vit E and Retinol.

6. Pictured above, is the emulsion without Poly80, add that now along with phenoxyethanol and any essential oils.

Done. Final pH of the serum is 6.03.

If you wish to make adjustments to the serum, please go to:

SEA Lab Batch Size Calculator

SEAKinNiaNAG serum

SeaKiNiaNAG  is based on the effective combination of 5% niacinamide/ vitamin B3 and N-acetyl-D glucosamine 2%. Kinetin is a potent antioxidant and signal peptide with anti aging benefits. The following is using lecithin as the emulsifier. 

Another version of KinNiaNAG using Ewax can be found at Dempeaux.com KinNiaNAG with E wax  
If you don't have the time or interest to DIY, another option : SeaKinNiaNAG Serum is available here.  

*n.b. If you are using the SeaKNN kit, you will start at #3. Measure 0.3 grams of the solution. It is best to use a syringe. The Kit is pH adjusted to 5.6. You will not need citric acid. Follow the kit instructions and weights. The tutorial is the guide to help you, one ingredient has been added based on personal preference. The procedure remains the same. 

SkinCare forum is available to ask and answer questions. SEA has been invited to participate at that venue.

Ingredients	Percent  Active %
Kinetin	0.1 %
Niacinamide	5 %
N-acetyl D glucoasmine	2 %
Sea Emollient	30 %
Glycerin/ Dex Panthenol	3 %
Distilled water	24.5 %
Borage Oil	26.9%
Lecithin	5 %
Polysorbate 80	2 %
Vitamin E	1 %
1 N NaOH Sol'n + Citric Acid	pH adjustment
Preservative	0.5 %

1.a. Kinetin must first go into solution, to do so, you need 0.39 grams of NaOH [ sodium hydroxide] and 10 mls of distilled water. Place the NaOH in a glass or stainless steel container, then add the 10 mls of H20. This will cause the NaOH to give off noxious fumes. Don't breathe it . It will also generate heat. Keep this off to the side until it cools down.

1.b. As a 1 N NaOH solution was made previously, the solvent is ready for use. One less step. 

2. Measure 0.03 grams of Kinetin into a small glass. Add sufficient amount to cover your crystals and stir. Set aside, and check periodically. Stir. It will go into solution. 

3.a. Weigh and combine Niacinamide , NAG , Vitamin E acetate and H20 , stir until dissolved. 

If using the SeaKNN kit, you will measure out 0.3 grams of the Kinetin 10%  solution at this point and add to the B3/NAG/H20.

3.b. If using  Dexpanthenol / glycerin, add that now.  Stir until all is in solution.

4. Add Kinetin solution.  Check the pH and adjust to pH 7.0

5. Add Sea emollient blend. Add your preservative and blend.

6. Oil/s of choice 10.50 grams and E- wax or Lecithin powder 2.20 grams combined, and heated till the lecithin melts in a double boiler.Alternatively, heat the oil.and slowly add lecithin while blending. 

7. Blend the oil and lecithin well.

8a.. Pour  the water phase while blending  into your oil and lecithin/ wax. 

Keep blending...

8.b. It is quite thick, and now add your 1) Polysorbate 80,2) Essential oils and 3) preservative. Blend.

9. Pour into a sterilized container.         

10. Done...Patch test before using.

The formula is quite stable, does not require refrigeration.

If one wishes to add Retinyl Palmitate it is quite useful and non irritating. Please go to

SEA Lab Online Calculator

if you want to make any adjustments or want to modify the batch size.

SeaKinNiaNAG Serum is available here.