Sunday, June 3, 2012

Lemon Peel Bioferment Skin Brightening Serum

Lemon Peel Bioferment is touted as being as effective as hydroquinone for lightening the skin and overall brightening. The research supporting such a claim is scant at best. It is known that citral and myrcene have inhibitory effect of tyrosinase. Citric acid itself has a long history of efficacy. Niacinamide and N-acetyl D glucosamine are proven lightening agents.
SkinCare forum is available to ask and answer questions. SEA has been invited to participate at that venue.

Ingredients Percentage %
Niacinamide  5 %
N-acetyl D glucosamine  5%
Distilled Water 37 %
Lemon Peel Bioferment  5%
Sea Kelp Bioferment  5%
Sea Emollient  5%
Vitamin E acetate  1%
Sclerotium gum 2% base  20%
Hyaluronic Acid  Hi wt.1%  7.5%
Chamomille Extract  5%
Glycerin  2%
Polysorbate 20  2%
Phenoxyethanol 0.5 %

1. Weigh all ingredients. 
2. B3 and NAG into water, stir until dissolved. Add Vitamin E acetate. Stir
3. Add LPB to water phase, HA 1% and Sclerotium gum. Blend
4. Add Chamomille extract, Polysorbate 20 , glycerin and Oil. Blend.
5. Add phenoxyethanol. 
6. Bottle serum in a sterilized container. 

Creates a white colored light and silky serum. 

To create a thicker serum with similar silky spreading, increase water by 18% and use sclerotium powder at 2% of total formulation.

Saturday, June 2, 2012

Oil Cleansing Method, Emulsified OCM

Oil cleansing method that rinses easily and cleanly. Readily tailored to your skin type and needs.

Oils of choice based on skin type and needs ~ 70-80%
Castor 0il  ~10-20%
Polysorbate 20 or polysorbate 80. ~ 8-10%
Essential oils chosen on same basis = Less than 1%

Combine the oils and polysorbate in a sterilized bottle. Shake and ready to use. 

For further information: The Oil Cleansing Method.

SkinCare forum is available to ask and answer questions. SEA has been invited to participate at that venue.

Chrysalis Eye Serum

Vit K1, Chrysin and Retinol have been shown to aid in the fight against time and this is most prominent in the eye area. Dark circles due to RBC by products often appear and are bothersome. Chrysin has been shown to up regulate the expression UGT1A1 which leads to the breakdown of bilirubin and it's eventual removal via the bloodstream.

Primarily developed for the eye area. It has a very light, almost a mousse like texture. Tingly but not irritating, however everyone is different. The serum is based on a few studies.

Chrysin protects epidermal keratinocytes from UVA- and UVB-induced damage.The induction of human UDP-glucuronosyltransferase 1A1 mediated through a distal enhancer module by flavonoids and xenobiotics.
Application of Retinol to Human Skin In Vivo Induces Epidermal Hyperplasia and Cellular Retinoid Binding Proteins Characteristic of Retinoic Acid but Without Measurable Retinoic Acid Levels or Irritation.
Levels of retinyl palmitate and retinol in the stratum corneum, epidermis, and dermis of female SKH-1 mice topically treated with retinyl palmitate.
Effects of topical vitamin K and retinol on laser-induced purpura on nonlesional skin.
Human vitamin K 2,3-epoxide reductase complex subunit 1-like 1 (VKORC1L1) mediates vitamin K-dependent intracellular antioxidant function.
Destabilization of egg lecithin liposomes on the skin after topical application measured by perturbed gamma gamma angular correlation spectroscopy (PAC) with 111In.
The role of topical vitamin K oxide gel in the resolution of postprocedural purpura.
Formulation optimization of prostaglandin E(1)-loaded lipid emulsion: Enhanced stability and reduced biodegradation.

Ingredients Percent %
Chrysin 1 %
Retinol  2%
Vit E acetate/ oil  1%
Egg Lecithin  5 %
Polysorbate 80  2%
Borage oil  30%
Distilled H20  21.75%
Dex Panthenol  3%
 Vitamin K  2%
Sea Emollient 29. 5 %
1 N NaOH 2.25 %
Phenoxyethanol 0.5 %

  Citric acid to adjust pH. 


 1. Set up equipment and weigh all actives first. Calibrate your pH meter. 

2.  Place the water soluble actives[water phase, H20, Sea Emollient, B5 , Vit E acetate, Vit A acetate.] together and blend thoroughly.
3.a. Chrysin needs to go into solution with only just enough 1 N NaOH then is quickly added to the water phase.
3.b. Adjust pH to 6.3.

4. Place the water mix into the ultrasound cleaner. Slowly sprinkle in the egg lecithin while blending.

5. Warm the oils to 40 C and then combine in the beaker in the ultrasound cleaner.
6. Allow to cool, add Vitamin K and Phenoxyethanol.

This method will allow for the creation of liposomes. Egg lecithin allows for a stable emulsion and is exquisite for facial and eye care. It however does have a scent that is readily masked with various essential oils. Neroli and Frankincense are useful.

TEST the serum prior to use, or reduce the key potentially irritating actives. Retinol and Vitamin K and increase with tolerance.

*n.b. Lecithin may clump, this can be most readily avoided by sprinkling the powder into the water phase while blending at the same time. Should clumps occur, filtering the emulsion will result in the removal.

Chrysalis lends itself nicely to the addition of AHYP, as well as sclerotium gum. Using a sclerotium gum 1-2 % base , same can be done using hyaluronic acid , one can easily sub out up to half the Sea Emollient and create an even more silky serum.  Make the appropriate adjustments using the batch size calculator.

DIY C Serum ~ SEA T Honey

15% LAA, 0.5% Ferulic acid, 1.0 Vitamin E , EGCG 90% @ 5%

In combination of free radical scavenger and metal chelator, the chelator decreases the oxidation rates by inhibiting metal-catalyzed oxidation; resulting in, fewer free radicals  generated in the system. Inactivation of antioxidants via termination reaction or participation in autoxidation occurs to a lesser extent in such situations. The concentration of antioxidant, available to scavenge free radicals, will always be greater at a given time than when no metal chelator is present. The combination of chelator and radical scavenger decreases free radical generation and increases radical scavenging potential . Synergistic activity has been observed in the mixtures of natural tocopherols and citric acid. The synergistic effect of this mixture is caused by the chain-breaking ability of tocopherols and metal chelation of citric acid .

E. N. Frankel, Lipid Oxidation, The Oily Press, West Ferry, Dundee, 1998, pp. 13, 79, 115, 129, and 167.

E. A. Decker, in C. C. Akoh and D. B. Min, eds., Food Lipids: Chemistry, Nutrition and Biotechnology, 2nd ed., Marcel Dekker, Inc., New York, 2002, p. 517.

Epigenetic and genetic mechanisms contribute to telomerase inhibition by EGCG.

Green tea polyphenol (-)-epigallocatechin-3-gallate treatment of human skin inhibits ultraviolet radiation-induced oxidative stress.

 Ingredients % required
L Ascorbic acid 15 %
Vitamin E Oil 1%
Ferulic acid 0.5 %
Sea Emollient 28%
EGCG /Green Tea Extract 5%
Sclerotium Gum 2%
Distilled Water 40.5%
1 N NaOH  2%
Citric Acid 0.5%
Oil of Choice 5 %
Phenoxyethanol 0.5%

1. Weigh and measure your ingredients.
2. Ferulic acid into solution with NaOH or  ETOH, stir till dissolved = white
3. LAA into water, stir till dissolved, may have some light dust, don't panic.
4. EGCG into LAA and Water Stir, Will turn a honey color tan/ brown
5. Citric acid into mix, stir/ blend
6. Sclerotium gum , mix and blend
7. Sea emollient, blend
8. Vit E oil, Oil of choice + Phenoxy 
9. Adjust pH to 3.2 or under.

Creates an ultra light and silky serum.