Saturday, June 2, 2012

Chrysalis Eye Serum

Vit K1, Chrysin and Retinol have been shown to aid in the fight against time and this is most prominent in the eye area. Dark circles due to RBC by products often appear and are bothersome. Chrysin has been shown to up regulate the expression UGT1A1 which leads to the breakdown of bilirubin and it's eventual removal via the bloodstream.

Primarily developed for the eye area. It has a very light, almost a mousse like texture. Tingly but not irritating, however everyone is different. The serum is based on a few studies.

Chrysin protects epidermal keratinocytes from UVA- and UVB-induced damage.The induction of human UDP-glucuronosyltransferase 1A1 mediated through a distal enhancer module by flavonoids and xenobiotics.
Application of Retinol to Human Skin In Vivo Induces Epidermal Hyperplasia and Cellular Retinoid Binding Proteins Characteristic of Retinoic Acid but Without Measurable Retinoic Acid Levels or Irritation.
Levels of retinyl palmitate and retinol in the stratum corneum, epidermis, and dermis of female SKH-1 mice topically treated with retinyl palmitate.
Effects of topical vitamin K and retinol on laser-induced purpura on nonlesional skin.
Human vitamin K 2,3-epoxide reductase complex subunit 1-like 1 (VKORC1L1) mediates vitamin K-dependent intracellular antioxidant function.
Destabilization of egg lecithin liposomes on the skin after topical application measured by perturbed gamma gamma angular correlation spectroscopy (PAC) with 111In.
The role of topical vitamin K oxide gel in the resolution of postprocedural purpura.
Formulation optimization of prostaglandin E(1)-loaded lipid emulsion: Enhanced stability and reduced biodegradation.

Ingredients Percent %
Chrysin 1 %
Retinol  2%
Vit E acetate/ oil  1%
Egg Lecithin  5 %
Polysorbate 80  2%
Borage oil  30%
Distilled H20  21.75%
Dex Panthenol  3%
 Vitamin K  2%
Sea Emollient 29. 5 %
1 N NaOH 2.25 %
Phenoxyethanol 0.5 %

  Citric acid to adjust pH. 


 1. Set up equipment and weigh all actives first. Calibrate your pH meter. 

2.  Place the water soluble actives[water phase, H20, Sea Emollient, B5 , Vit E acetate, Vit A acetate.] together and blend thoroughly.
3.a. Chrysin needs to go into solution with only just enough 1 N NaOH then is quickly added to the water phase.
3.b. Adjust pH to 6.3.

4. Place the water mix into the ultrasound cleaner. Slowly sprinkle in the egg lecithin while blending.

5. Warm the oils to 40 C and then combine in the beaker in the ultrasound cleaner.
6. Allow to cool, add Vitamin K and Phenoxyethanol.

This method will allow for the creation of liposomes. Egg lecithin allows for a stable emulsion and is exquisite for facial and eye care. It however does have a scent that is readily masked with various essential oils. Neroli and Frankincense are useful.

TEST the serum prior to use, or reduce the key potentially irritating actives. Retinol and Vitamin K and increase with tolerance.

*n.b. Lecithin may clump, this can be most readily avoided by sprinkling the powder into the water phase while blending at the same time. Should clumps occur, filtering the emulsion will result in the removal.

Chrysalis lends itself nicely to the addition of AHYP, as well as sclerotium gum. Using a sclerotium gum 1-2 % base , same can be done using hyaluronic acid , one can easily sub out up to half the Sea Emollient and create an even more silky serum.  Make the appropriate adjustments using the batch size calculator.