Saturday, December 17, 2011

Base Lotion/ Creme

 A simple base lotion/ creme with a few changes along the way. A base lotion can make it easier for simply incorporating actives, however not all base lotions/ creams are created equal. It's just as easy and more effective to build one as opposed to purchase one. Tailoring a base to your personal preferences is also not rocket science. You can choose the ingredients you want to work with. The following is a simple one with modifications because the formulator felt like it. At SEA the preference is to work with ingredients that have a direct benefit to dermal health as opposed to 'sensor' appeal. You can have both without compromising.
Ingredients Percentage %
Oils 27 %
Sea Emollient 15 %
Distilled Water 25.5 %
Vitamin E acetate or oil 1 %
Hyaluronic Acid 1% 15 %
Glycerin 2 %
Dexpanthenol 3 %
Lecithin 3%
E wax 8 %
Preservative 0.5 %

1. Prepare ingredients and tools. 
 2. Weigh your ingredients and start the hot water in the double boiler.
3.a. Melt the Ewax and the oils. Then add your lecithin, we used egg lecithin in the example. 
3.b. Lecithin, Wax and Oil in the hot water, blend.

4.a. Combine your water phase of, HA 1%, H20, Vit E, Sea Emollient, B5 and glycerin. Blend and then place in the hot water bath with the oils. 
4.b. When the Oil and emulsifiers are well mixed and both phases are at the same temperature, remove them.
5.a. While blending, slowly add either half to the other. In this case, water phase to oil phase and you will see the emulsion forming. 
5.b.Add your preservatives and essential oils. Pour into a sterilized container. 

Now, .it can get more interesting. Suppose you want to add Idebenone to that base, or Retinyl Palmitate. Generally adding actives after the fact is rather unattractive and gritty. Still is, but it can be done not too badly.

6. a. Self explanatory. You already know the total in your cream, We need 0.5% . Calculate that and add it.
6.1. Weigh your active, it is oil soluble. 
6.2. Weigh your oil.
6.3. Mix the two and add a small amount of your lotion and continue mixing till smooth
6.4. Incorporate into your base cream. 
6.5. Done.
6.6 Forgot...let's add Retinyl Palmitate at 2%, same procedure as above but simply weigh it and add it in. 

But, it's still not as thick as one might prefer. Not that thickness provides any specific benefit to the skin, but it is what most are used to.

7.1. More lecithin, 3%. Used Soy lecithin, no particular reason.
7.2. Same procedure as for Idebenone. Add oil, mix add some lotion mix
7.3. Add to entire pot of lotion~creme.
7.4. It can hold a spatula straight, without fillers or waxes or other stiffening agents. 
7.5. 24 hours later it has set and is a very hydrating Idebenone and Vitamin A cream. 

Why was it  thin? The HA 1% was the Super Low Molecular Weight HA, it is as thin as water. Added no body to the lotion.Using a heavy weight HA will make a big difference in the end product.

To increase the 'thickness', various butters that are solid at room temperature can be added. That will change the consistency as well as the texture. It is entirely up to personal preference how you want to make a base lotion.

This lotion, is not greasy, sinks into the skin quickly.