Saturday, December 17, 2011

SeaVage ~ Idebenone B3/ NAG serum

Prevage is based on the efficacy of Idebenone in clinical trials. However, the name brand is extremely expensive. To DIY an Idebenone serum is relatively straight forward. Sea Lab has combined the active with several other clinically proven actives at  clinically effective levels. User feedback has been extremely positive. To make it easier , the following tutorial is offered as a guide. The formula can be simplified if one prefers.
*n.b. If making SeaVage from the DIY KIT, you are not missing ingredients. You are getting started, the tutorial is 100% applicable to the kit. The singular difference is the extra ingredients that are not included can be added  if you were to choose so. When you DIY, you have many options.

Ingredients Percent Total %
Idebenone 0.5 %
Niacinamide 5 %
N- Acetyl D glucosamine 2 %
Oils/~ Borage 28 %
Distilled H20 19 %
Sclerotium Gum or  Hyaluronic Acid 1% 8 %
Vitamin E acetate 1 %
Lecithin= Egg or Soy 5 %
Retinol ~ Vitamin A acetate / Retinyl Palmitate 1 %
Sea Emollient 28 %
Polysorbate 80 2 %
Phenoxyethanol 0.5%
Essential oils of preference. pH: 6.03

1. Set up ingredients and tools before hand. Make sure everything is ready.

2. Weigh all your ingredients:  

3.a. Combine the water soluble ingredients: Vit E acetate and Retinol
3.b. Add the sea emollient and HA1% or sclerotium gum and blend. Then add the B3 and NAG.

4 a. Retinol may not go completely into solution at this point. Easy fix, place the water phase component into the hot water bath along with the oil which is now warming, not cooking, will not require more than 40-45 Celsius.

4.b. Remove both the oil and water half from the hot water bath. Add the Ideneone to the oils. *n.b. the Retinol is now completely in solution.

5.a. Blend briefly the Idebenone and oil, then add the lecithin and blend. Add lecithin slowly while blending and you will soon have a custard appearing emulsion.

5.b. In #3 you are combining the water phase of Sea emollient, HA, B3 , NAG, Vit E and Retinol.
6. Pictured above, is the emulsion without Poly80, add that now along with phenoxyethanol and any essential oils.

Done. Final pH of the serum is 6.03.

If you wish to make adjustments to the serum, please go to:

SEA Lab Batch Size Calculator